A floor plan is a view of a house that would be seen if you were to take a knife and slice the house to see the walls, windows, doors, etc. from the top about mid ways down the walls. This is also called the dimensional plan. Most all floor plans are drawn at the scale of 1/4" = 1'- 0". It should include all the dimensions (measurements) of the wall, window, and door locations, door and window sizes, stair locations, room labels, locations of exposed beams, cased opening sizes and locations, bathroom layout showing sink vanity, tub, and toilet, kitchen cabinets with appliances & sink fixtures, and construction notes.
Some floor plans include the electrical symbols showing the receptacles, light switches, light fixtures, ceiling fans, cable connections, telephone jacks, and meter base locations. These can be included in the dimenstional plan but many opt to have it on a seperate drawing.
The exterior elevations include all four (4) views of the home which are front, left, rear, & right drawn also at 1/4" = 1' - 0" scale. The are some plans that have the front elevation drawn at 1/4" scale and then the left, rear & right at 1/8" = 1' - 0" On these views are notes about what type of siding or veneer, the roof pitches (angles), grade locations, finished floor & ceiling locations, and a roof plan showing the house from the top view. The roof plan is usually drawn at 1/8" = 1' - 0" scale or 1/16" = 1' - 0".
The foundation or basement plan is the same type as the floor plan showing wall types, footing sizes, floor joist or truss locations, support beams, pilasters or piers, and ventilation vents & openings. The foundation or basement plan is also a dimensional type drawing. Most of these plans are drawn at the scale of 1/4" = 1'- 0".
If the plan is more detailed we would see sectional details showing the wall and roof construction of the home, HVAC plan, plumbing plan, and cabinet elevations. Even more involved plans would show the types of mouldings, pediments, & trims in greater detail.
Tim Davis has been a professional home designer since 1990. His website is at http://customhouseplans.8m.com and he also teaches architectural drafting at http://houseplandrafting101.net.
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( 3 / 253 )In late 2000, I bought a piece of property that was used as a farm for the past three generations. And even though just under six acres, was one of the prettiest pieces of land you ever laid eyes on. One half of the property is wooded and the remainder is rolling hills. At the westernmost section of the land runs a bubbling brook fed by a gushing spring. The water in that spring is crystal clear, fresh, and cool, all year round.
My wife and I borrowed my families RV and moved onto the property that same year with all intentions of building an English Style Tudor home on the front side of the property.
I’m an architectural designer by trade and had spent months laying out my wife’s dream home. (OK, I admit it was mine too!) It was going to be built using trees off the land that I spent six weeks cutting down and shaping into 8” x 8” beams with my chain saw.
Then we hit a snag. The place where we were to build our dream home sat too close to the power lines that ran across the front of the property. Sure, I could get the utility board to move them, but not at their expense. I’d have to pay for the entire shooting match and that just wasn’t in the budget.
By the time we got the news about the power lines, we had already spent nine weeks in that old RV and to be honest, it was getting sort of cramped seeing that three of our five children were still living at home. I don’t care how big the RV is, if there is a 5 year old, two young teens, and two adults packed in it, life gets interesting. My wife’s nerves were getting a bit frazzled and to be honest, so were mine.
On our farm, the only other suitable place to build sat the most beautiful old barn you ever laid eyes on. 64’ wide by 30’ deep. This barn had good solid construction with 6” x 6” columns, true 2” x 6” girts and rafters, 1” x 10” & 12” planking on the walls and lofts floors. All rough sawn and true size. This building was nearly a century old and twice as solid as modern structures today.
When I got the news about the house, I tried to break it to my wife as easy as possible so I took her out for a moon light stroll. You know, one of those romantic type walks that women just seem to get all gushy about. On our stroll we walked up to the barn where I had stored all those beams I had made to keep them in the dry until needed.
Sweety, I said. “We can’t build the house right now. If I have to clear land to build it, there will be another three to four month wait before I can even start construction.” Then, off the cuff I said; “Maybe I could build us an apartment in the barn until I can start on the house.” Her eyes lit up and she asked me; “How long would it take to build?” I thought for a second and decided it would take probably a month to complete.
Her excitement returned and seeing her face light up like that spurred me on to swinging a hammer. I selected the widest open part of the barn and started the construction. I’m glad I had the utility board hook power up to the barn as it really made life easier to use my power tools.
I visited our local saw mill and bought as much raw lumber as I could. First I constructed a new loft area using some of the beams I had cut out, then using those same beams, started cutting out stairs. Next I enclosed the face of the opening with native rock and mortar at about three feet tall and then a wood wall on top of that.
I built the floor to the Living Room and Den and then started framing the Kitchen which would protrude out of the back of the barn. Next, the loft I had previously built became mine and my wife’s bedroom. From there I opened an area into the existing loft and started building the bathroom and two other bedrooms.
It has been close to eight years now and that barn apartment has become a full blown home complete with five Bedrooms, a Living Room, Den/Dining Room, Kitchen, Full Bathroom, Study, Sunroom/Laundry, Sewing Room, and a Garage. We haven’t even used up a third of the barn yet and our square footage is already around 2064 sq. ft. of heated area. That square footage doesn’t include the Garage, or Woodshop. The Garage is 13’-4” by 20’ and the Wood Shop is the same size.
If you are planning to convert an outbuilding or barn into a home, you are in for a treat. Not only is there a rustic beauty but a whole bunch of possibilities for layout and use.
Tim Davis is a veteran Architectural Designer who also teaches architecture and drafting over the internet at http://houseplandrafting101.net. He is currently planning the construction of a website devoted entirely to the subject of barn conversion. The info page for updates on the website can be found at http://draftingservice.us/barnhomes, which he plans to update often.
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( 3 / 275 )If you’re wanting to have a qualified professional draw your house plans, here are a few tips on what to provide the designer or architect with.
You have probably spent a great deal of time trying to find out what you are wanting. This is only natural as you are wanting your home to be not only functional but to fit your personal needs as well. Don’t hesitate to sketch out ideas on grid paper. This is one of the best resources I’ve received from a client. Think about the size rooms you need as in most homes, each room is specialized with specific purposes. Think about porches and entrances, where you are wanting windows, then note them on your sketch.
If you have already selected a lot, obtain a survey, preferably with topography. A good survey should have existing utilities, right of ways, easements, and even setbacks on it. If not, then it’s probably a good idea to hire a registered land surveyor to provide you with one. If the lot is in a subdivision, most likely this is already completed and available through the real estate agent or subdivision board.
As for the exterior of the home, spend time looking around your area at different homes or look in architecture magazines and books. Take photos or make photocopies of what you like and mark them with the things you liked. Hey, a picture paints a thousand words. Take care not to duplicate a copyrighted set of plans.
And make sure you tell them what your needs are as far as electrical. If they are drawing the electrical plan also, you may wind up with a generic electrical plan. Considerations there are ceiling fans and their locations, more outlets in specific areas, how much exterior lighting you are wanting, etc…
Some of my colleagues are probably going to not like this next paragraph. Oh well. If the truth hurts? I’ve seen many a future home owner not get what they are wanting in a home in place of what the professional wanted through artistic license. Not only for the fact that you are one paying the bill, but also for the fact that you are the one who inevitably has to live with the house after it’s built. Stick to your guns about what you want. The only reason you wouldn’t get what you’re wanting is if it’s either prohibited by code, physically impossible, or it just isn’t in the budget.
Make sure that they spell out what you’ll receive with your plan package from the beginning. That’s generally the case if you’re looking on the internet for the design professional. If they are wanting to upfront with you, they will spell out on their web site what you will receive and generally how much it will cost.
Most of all, a bit of common sense would be not paying for the entire job until it’s complete. If you make arrangements to pay one third or half up front, that’s fine. But make sure you can see the finished product before you pay the final amount.
Tim Davis has been a professional home designer since 1990. His website is at http://customhouseplans.8m.com and he also teaches architectural drafting at http://houseplandrafting101.net.
Other Links: http://ownhomestyle.com/having-your-hou ... lly-drawn/
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( 3 / 265 )Great idea, it sure saves money. Also eliminates the middle man. Those architects and designers can get expensive. I've heard that some designers can charge up to ten dollars per square foot for simple drawings containing a floor plan and exterior elevations. Now that is a chunk of change. If you are going to do it for yourself, you're going to need to know how. Below are just some of the things needed to know to draw a simple ranch style home.
So what do you need to know to draw your own house plan?
1. You need to know how to lay out your Floor Plan. The floor plan is the template for your entire set of drawings. From the floor plan show where we want our electrical, tell how big our rooms are, note our window and door sizes, etc., so this is where we have to begin. Sure you could start with the exterior views but that would limit our interior of the home to what the outside looks like. Not a good idea! The house needs to be functional first and look pretty second out of necessity.
2. You need to understand the mechanics of a well designed kitchen A kitchen is a place where the homemaker spends a majority of their time. It needs to be comfortable but functional. This area consists of a Sink area, Cooking area, & Food storage area. The best layout for a kitchen is one in which the least steps are taken to reach each appliance. This is called the working area or working triangle. A good working triangle doesn't exceed 12 to 14 feet all the way around.
3. The builder of the home would sure appreciate knowing where the walls, windows, & doors are located exactly. They would also like knowing door and window sizes, not to mention anything else special that is on the plan. That's where the dimensions and notes come in handy. You need to be able to create a dimensional string and groups of notes that aren't confusing.
4. The Electrical Plan is very important to you as it gives you the opportunity to customize the home to your power and comfort needs! On the other hand, it is not always needed. What I mean by this is that any electrician who has taken a test for his or her license knows what is required electrical service by code. Chances are that they have already wired quite a few residences and barring any special needs or preferences can do the job without this plan. Always be aware though!!! Certain states require that you be a licensed Architect or Electrical Engineer to do Electrical plans. Be sure to check with your local building inspector to see what your limitations are! This will definitely save you some headaches down the road.
5. In standard construction, at least in the South Eastern United States, houses are built on Masonry Foundations or Basements. A foundation is the part of the home that anchors it to or keeps it from settling into the ground. This knowledge is a must in completing your plans.
6. What about how the exterior is going to look? It is no small matter if you are wanting to convey the idea of how the finished product is going to look when construction is complete. What is it going look like when its built? How to determine the best roof pitch, do we use brick, siding or rock?
7. Folks, I defiantly don't believe in mind reading! Neither does to typical contractor! If there is anything special you are wanting to build into your house, how is the builder to know unless you show them? You can make all the notes you want to on your plans and elevations but the message of how you want the house constructed may not always come across. That's why you need to understand how to draw details.
8. Then there is the task of finishing your drawings and not letting goofs and slip-ups get out the door. You need to understand the most common mistakes made by people who draw house plans so you can look out for them!
9. Last but not least in drawing your house plans is to know how to print them out and in what format and size.
My name is Tim Davis and I draw architectural plans for a living. I know what I'm talking about. I also teach others how to draw plans in a virtual classroom on the internet called House Plan Drafting 101 at http://houseplandrafting101.net. Above are the basics I teach in that class.
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